I took three colleagues to The Pem on Broadway for what I described in the diary as “a working dinner” and what was, in reality, a celebration of having survived a particularly gruelling editorial…
Alan Nafzger on Westminster’s most impressive modern British tasting menu
Bohiney Magazine | The London Prat
The Pem at Conrad: A Proper Editor’s Night Out
by Alan Nafzger
I took three colleagues to The Pem on Broadway for what I described in the diary as “a working dinner” and what was, in reality, a celebration of having survived a particularly gruelling editorial week without significant casualties. The Pem provided the dignified setting. The tasting menu did the rest.
4.6 stars, 221 reviews. Modern British. Inside the Conrad St James hotel. Over one hundred pounds per head, which I put through as entertainment expenses with the confidence of a man who has just edited a piece about government expense practices that would make the reader weep. The food was extraordinary. Each course was a small argument for the idea that British cuisine has fully, finally, arrived – not as a nostalgic project but as a living, confident tradition.
What The Pem Says About British Food in 2026
For generations, “British food” was the punchline. Now The Pem is serving thirteen courses of modern British cooking that reference tradition without being enslaved to it, and charging over one hundred pounds for the experience, and getting 4.6 stars across 221 reviews from people who paid that much and wanted more. This is a revolution conducted entirely through lamb and seasonal vegetables and nobody has adequately reported it.
I am reporting it now. The London Prat covers geopolitics. I will cover the tasting menu. The Conrad St James is a fitting home for this kind of ambition. The butter course alone was worth the diary entry.
SOURCE: https://bohiney.com/